Shirt collar



G. A. RIPLEY SHIRT COLLAR- March 19, 1935.

Filed May 26, 1934 atentecl Mar. 19,- 1935 NlTED STAT-ES PATEN OFFICE Claims.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in shirt collars.

This invention has to do with collars which are either attached to a shirt or made separate there- 5 from, and one of its objects is to provide permanent stiifening in such collars in a new and improved manner.

Certain efforts have been made in the past to produce stiffened collars by cementing the layers or strips of cloth together. This has been found impractical until recently because cellulose cements were used and a proper plasticizer was not available, and consequently such collars could not be laundered and maintained in their proper shape.

With the development of an adequate plasticizer stiffened collars have been produced by uniting the fabric strips with cellulose cement. However, certain serious objections have been discovered and an important object of my invention is to provide means for overcoming these objections.

In making cemented collars it was found that unless the outer facing was cemented to the lining the latter would not remain smooth in laundering and if the outer facing was cemented to the lining, then a proper plasticizer must be present in the cellulose in order to give the necessary flexibility to the collar and to permit it to be repeatedly laundered. It was also found out that if the outer facing was cemented to the lining and the inner or under side of the lining was not coated with cement, the points of the collar curled up because of the differentials in tension of the outer and inner sides of the lining. Further the portion of the collar along which it was folded could not be cemented because it would become too stiff for folding and the fold when not cemented wrinkled and gave the appearance of a collar which had been wilted down by perspiration.

An important object of the invention is to provide a collar wherein both sides of the lining are coated with a waterproof cement or composition for stiffening said lining. Such a collar will hold its shape, its points will not curl up, and it may be repeatedly laundered. This is particularly true where the outer facing is cemented to the lining.

, Another object of the invention is to provide a collar leaf wherein the outer facing is cemented to the lining and the inner facing is not cemented to such lining, thus permitting the collarleaf to be turned inside out after both sides of-the lining have been coated with cement, the outer facing cemented to the lining and the inner facing sewed to the outer facing and the lining.

A very important object of the invention is to provide a collar in which the fold portion is cemented with a flexible cement, whereby one or both of the facings may be secured to the lining along the fold without so stifiening this portion as to interfere with ready folding and yet by which the collar fold is held smooth and free from wrinkles.

A construction designed to carry out the invention will be hereinafter described, together with other features of the invention.

The invention will be more readily understood from a reading of the following specification and by reference to the accompanying drawing, in which an example of the invention is shown, and wherein:

Figure 1 is a plan view of a collar liner or fabric strip of the proper shape and form to be useful in practicing my invention.

Figure 2 is a plan view showing the first step in making a collar in accordance with the invention,

Figure 3 is a plan view showing the second step,

Figure 4 is a plan view showing the third step,

Figure 5 is an isometrical view showing the fourth step, a

Figure 6 is. a perspective view of a collar leaf after the first sewing and prior to turning, and

Figure 7 is a perspective view of a completed collar leaf ready to be sewed onto the collar band 0 of a detachable collar or onto the collar band of a shirt to which it is attached.

In the drawing the numeral 10 designates the fabric lining of the leaf of a collar which may be made of any suitable material. has the general shape of the collar as is shown in Figure 1. The lining is laid flat upon a support 11, as is shown in Figure 2. A liquid stiffening composition is applied to the upper surface of the lining 10 with a brush or in any other suitable manner. The exact ingredients of this composition are immaterial so long as they are such as to produce a water-proof and heat-proof stiffening or cement which will adhere to the fabrics. I have obtained satisfactory results by using a cellulose cement containing a suitable cellulose dissolved in acetone or other solvent to the desired consistency. Thedesired degree of flexibility may be had by using a suitable plasticizer such as Santicizer. In order to keep the upper marginal edge portion 10 of the lining free from the stiffening cement, a bar 12 is placed thereover, as is This lining shown in Figure 1. This marginal portion 10' becomes part of the fold of the collar.

The lining which has been coated on one side is inverted, laid upon board 11 and a bar 12 placed thereon, as is shown in Figure 3. The surface of this board is given a thin coating of paraffin to prevent the cemented fabric adhering to the surface of said board. The exposed side of the lining is then coated as in the first instance. After the stiffening coating has been applied the bar 12 is removed (Figure 4), and the narrow edge panel 10' is coated with a suitable flexible cement which will not stiffen the fabrics when dry. A cement suitable for this purpose may include cellulose, a synthetic gum and a suitable plasticizer.

After the cements have been applied the lining remains on the board 11 as is shown in Figure 4. The outer facing 13, of suitable material, is placed upon the double coated side of the lining and wrinkles spread out of the same, as is shown in Figure 5. Very little pressure will be required to unite the fabrics as the cements will still be wet and this operation may be carried out by hand or mechanically. When the facing 13 has been attached the work is allowed to partially dry. While the period may vary according to climatic and weather conditions and the cements used, approximately thirty minutes has'proven satisfactory in my factory located in the city of Dallas, Texas.

The drying must progress to such a stage that the facing 13 and the lining 10 will adhere to each other, but not sufliciently to become so stifi as to interfere with sewing and turning. When this stage is reached the inner or under facing 14 is laid upon the outer facing 13 and sewed to said outer facing and the lining as is shown in Figure 6. The collar is then turned inside out as is the usual practice and themarginal stitching performed after such turning. The facing 14 will not adhere to the lining 10 as the cements will have sufliciently dried to prevent such adhesion unless pressure is applied. The collar is then pressed with a hot iron or in a pressing machine. The pressing smoothes and flattens the collar and tends to hasten the complete drying of the cements. The completed collar leaf as is shown in Figure '7, is now ready to be sewed to the collar band of a collar or a shirt.

'It will be noted that the flexible cement is applied only to the outer side of the panel 10'. As the underside does not show, it is not necessary to cement it, but it can be done if desired. The under facing 14 is not cemented to the lining in the steps which have been described, but by using a thermoplastic cement on one side of the lining the inner facing 14 could be cemented to thelining, after the collar leaf had been turned, by the pressing operation.

The cementitious liquid which is used will thoroughly permeate and impregnate the lining and when set will stifien and reinforce the same except at the fold. By using a cellulose or similar composition, containing a proper plasticizer, the stiffening will not be brittle and, therefore, will permit flexing of the collar without breaking or cracking said stifiening. This will permit the collar to be repeatedly laundered in the usual way without injury.

While I have described the method as involving the application of a flexible cement to the fold of the collar leaf, this step could be omitted and the fold left free of cement. So far as I am aware I am the first to practice the method of coating both sides of the lining, cementing an outer facing to one side of the lining and drying the same,

so that the exposed side of the lining becomes substantially non-adhesive, then sewing aninner or under facing to the outer facing and the lining, and then turning the collar leaf inside out so that the under facing will lie next to the exposed, bu't dry side of the lining without being cemented thereto.

The invention is not to be limited to any number of stiffened linings. Where the outer or covering fabric, such as silk, poplin, or cambric, is thin, then the lining 10 and the auxiliary linings are more desirable; but where the covering fabric, such as flannel, is thick, then the auxiliary linings may be omitted and only the single lining 10, as is shown in Figure 6, is necessary. However, as many linings as is desired may be used.

While the invention is not to be limited to any particular type of cement or water-proof composition, it is pointed out that very good results may be had with cellulose cements and compositions the ingredients of which, may be purchased in the open market, and therefore, it is not considered necessary to give any particular formula because of this fact.

The description which has been given recites more or less detail of a particular embodiment of the invention, which is set forth as new and useful; however, I desire it understood that the invention is not limited to such exact details of construction, because it is manifest that changes and modifications may be made, within the scope of the appended claims, without departing from the spirit of the invention.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. The method of producing stiffened collar leaves which consists, in applying a water-proof stiffening cement to both sides of a collar lining and excluding said cement from the fold portion of said lining, coating the fold portion of the lining with a non-stiffening water-proof cement, applying an outer facing to the lining, partially drying the work, then applying an inner facing to the outer facing, and sewing the facings and lining together, then turning the collar inside out, and then pressing said collar leaf.

2. The method of producing stiffened collar leaves which consists, in applying a water-proof stiffening cement to both sides of a collar lining and excluding said cement from the fold portion of said lining, coating the fold .portion of the lining with a non-stiffening water-proof cement, applying an outer facing to the lining, partially drying the work, then applying an inner facing to the outer facing, and sewing the facings and lining together, then turning the collar inside out, then stitching the margin of the leaf, and then pressing said collar leaf.

3. The method of producing stiffened collar leaves which consists, in applying a water-proof stiffening cement to one side of a collar lining and excluding the stiffening from the fold portion, inverting the lining and applying a water'- proof stiffening cement to the other side of said lining and excluding the stiffening from the fold portion thereof, coating one side of the fold portion of the lining with a non-stiffening waterproof cement, applying a facing to the dual coated side of the lining, partially drying the cemented fabrics, then sewing a second facing to the first facing and the lining, then turning the collar leaf inside out, and then pressing the collar leaf.

'4. The method of producing stifiened collar leaves which consists, in applying a water-proof stiffening cement to one, side of a collar lining and excluding the stiffening from the fold portion, inverting the lining and applying a waterproof stiffening cement to the other side of said lining and excluding the stiffening from the fold portion thereof, coating one side of the fold portion of the lining with a non-stiffening waterproof cement, applying a facing to the dual coated side of the lining, drying the fabrics to the stage where the exposed coated side of the lining is substantially non-adhesive, then sewing a second facing to the first facing and the lining, then turning the collar inside out, and then pressing the collar leaf.

5. The method of producing stiffened collar leafs which consists, in cementing an outer facing to the lining of a collar, coating the other side of the lining with a water-proof stiffening cement, partially drying the work, sewing an inner facing to the leaf without cementing it to said lining, then turning the collar inside out, and then pressing the collar leaf.

GEORGE A. RIPLEY. 

